Cumin

An unassuming little Indian restaurant in Wicker Park that does the basics well. The decor is hip but comfortable. Bowls of spices fill the air with the unmistakable scent of Indian cuisine.The hostess and service is friendly, if a bit discombobulated. After a brief wait at the bar (the smallish space was full and bustling, even on a weeknight), a friendly waitress pointed out that in addition to the standards of Indian food, Cumin features a large amount of Nepalese dishes. Sadly, the goat will have to wait until next time. An appetizer of a samosa, chaat-like fried okra, and lamb kebab was delicious if simple. Then began the wait. At least 40 minutes passes before the entrees arrived, and it seemed like the wait was endemic; other tables were experiencing it as well. When the chicken tikka masala and vegetable biryani finally arrived, they were found to again be good examples of basic Indian food that non-Indians feel comfortable eating. One of the waiters even smiled knowingly as he set the plates down. Highlights were a naan filled with ground lamb and a spicy yogurt sauce to drizzle over the hot biryani, cutting the fire of the rice well. Overall, Cumin satisfies a craving for Indian staples should one be in Wicker Park.