Carnivale

Having never been to Carnivale, I expected run of the mill pan-Latin food, a drink menu that's mostly sweet and frozen, and waiters in gaucho pants. I was right on only the drink menu, which was mostly a bachelorette party's dream, apart from an extensive tequila selection. The food and atmosphere were completely different stories. Carnivale, like all restaurants run by impressario Jerry Kleiner is big, bold, and popular with those hoping to be seen. The decor is colorful, vibrant, and more than over the top, but it worked with such a large space and guest list; it created a fun setting and encouraged consumption of several fairly weak caipirinhas (the cachasa-based national drink of Brazil, whose root word means "hillbilly"). After settling in, acclimating to the noise level, and slightly obnoxious and disrespectful waiter, appetizers arrived. Guacamole with chips was creamy and refreshingly tasted of lime, but was in need of a kick. House made ricotta with pleasingly greasy garlic bread was rich enough but lacking, a balsamic flavor or pomegranate seeds would have added another dimension. The must-order small plate is tortillas covered in melted cheese and squash blossom, topped with tiny shrimp and a fiery tomato sauce. The entrees looked no less creative or promising; a churrasco style beef tenderloin with mashed potatoes enhanced with equal parts goat cheese and cream, a pleasingly thick arugula-based chimichurri, and a "spicy beet salsa" which was neither spicy nor a salsa, but still served as a nice accompaniment to the beef. Unfortunately, the tenderloin was served nearly well-done, not medium rare as requested. Dessert was merely adequate, an outrageous portion of three tropical ice creams molded around cake into a tower. Overall, Carnivale is an excellent celebratory restaurant but not a choice for a light, quiet dinner.