Saturday, August 7, 2010
Girl and the Goat
I dined at Stephanie Izard's new restaurant last night. Having never been to Scylla, I was looking forward to seeing what she can do. I wasn't disappointed, but the concept seemed cookie cutter. Bring me food from Mado, Bristol, or the Publican, all of which I have enjoyed, mix the dishes up and I'd have no clue what came from where. Obviously this sort of hearty, butcher's block communal tables upon which all sorts of animal parts in different configurations are served place is popular. It isn't fussy and it tastes good. But let's not go crazy every time another place opens that will fry pig feet or whip liver into butter. Our arteries would want us to exercise restraint. Anyway, everything I sampled was good or great. Kohlrabi salad (essentially cole slaw) with blueberries, escargot with goat meatballs in tomato sauce, ham frites (ham salt shaken over fries), goat flatbread with sour cherry, ricotta, onion and basil (the winning dish), yellow tomato soup with yogurt (thick like vichysoisse), and lastly, a dessert of olive oil gelato, fudge cubes, thin cookie and a stout sauce. There were also old fashioneds as accompaniment. The crowd was lively, the music was 90's, the place was full at 11, but the service was slow and the course pacing was off. Overall, it was very enjoyable.
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