Sunday, August 29, 2010

Lillie's Q

Barbecue is quickly becoming the next cupcake in Chicago, I can think of at least five nouveau places opened recently or opening soon. The gold standard is Smoque, but Lillie's Q is proof that there are contenders to challenge for the crown. Brick walls and a small, unassuming room with a blackboard drink menu offer nothing of the nuances to come. That drink menu features several mixed drinks containing a boutique, small batch corn whiskey, which added a nice bite and depth to an Arnold Palmer. The menu isn't long, but it doesn't need to be. Three appetizers, ten or so entrees, a few sides and a pair of desserts are more than enough to satisfy a picky eater. From the appetizers, fried pickles are fantastic. The batter is similar to tempura, which leaves them relatively light and not at all greasy. They performed well as a blank canvas to test out the six sauces left at the table. Carolina and Smokey were two favorites. As for entrees, the pulled pork with slaw sandwich on a fluffy brioche was a bit flavorless, but that was remedied quickly with lashings of the slightly spicy Smokey sauce. The tri-tip sandwich was another story. Pink and smoke-flavored, it surpassed Smoque's brisket in flavor. However, on a second visit, the same meat was chewy and tough. A side of baked beans was sublime; brown sugar and maple flavors pushed the beans past a thin, bland mac and cheese. A side of green beans was deliciously slick with butter and studded with bacon. Service was friendly, and the owner stopped by to discuss his triumphant Memphis in May BBQ contest victories. Lillie's Q definitely has a fighting chance in this city as well.

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