Thursday, September 16, 2010
DMK Burger Bar
DMK Burger bar takes the latter part of it's name seriously. The former, a bit less so. Walking in at 8 on a weeknight, the restaurant is long and narrow, dominated by a large bar along one side, a meandering red banquette on another, and a large, pink piece of wall art taking up yet another. With few tables, most people stood around the bar drinking. The drink menu was pleasantly eclectic, including one cocktail cribbed from NYC hipster locale Death and Co. The beer selection is lengthy as well, a peach fruit beer was fragrant and refreshing. The menu features about eight burgers (refreshingly, no do-it-yourself option to complicate things as is house practice at The Counter). Number four, a burger on a nice, pillowy ciabatta-type, slightly over-floured roll featured a nicely sized burger, cooked medium, with pepper jack cheese, a fried egg, thick slab bacon, and Hatch green chiles. The elements worked well together, though a bit more spice from the chiles would have been welcome. Also, fried eggs do not work on burgers. While the concept is sound, and a soft yolk spread over a patty provides a nice textural contrast and more mouth-feel, the problem is that egg white is tasteless. It seems to lessen the flavor of whatever burger is unfortunate enough to be sitting underneath it. Fries, chosen from a list of four, are nicely offered in single servings or doubles, even a single would have been enough for two. Fries smothered in Merkt's with limp, tiny green onions needed a more crisp onion to stand up to the richness of the cheese. Sweet potato fries were fine, but the accompanying lemon Tabasco aioli lacked any semblance of heat. Overall, DMK is a winner, a great place to drink and, if so inclined, eat.
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