Sushisamba Rio

Having been to Sushisamba in Chicago and Miami, I knew to expect an odd amalgam of overdone maki and Brazilian fare. Of the many small plates I sampled, three stood out. A special appetizer of a large portion of sweet corn tempura was covered in a dusting of fresh white truffles shaved table side by a chef who informed us that the restaurant was one of four in Chicago to procure white truffles this season due to the usually merely sky-high cost being astronomical this year. Of course, the truffles were welcome, as their earthy, cheesy musk and complex flavors were an excellent foil to the chewy, fried disk they sat atop. The two other dishes that proved worth ordering were both grilled meats; a beautifully cooked portion of short ribs and an addicting charred octopus, which didn't need the thick, sweet mayonnaise-based sauce that accompanied the crunchy tendrils. The sushi, like most maki nowadays, was overwhelmed by too many ingredients. Yellowtail and lobster, stuffed into miniature taco shells, was cute but saturated by a sweet peanut sauce rendering the contents barely noticeable. Service was passable, if a bit slow. The large space was about half full of tourists on a Tuesday. Clearly, Sushisamba Rio has staying power in Chicago.